Surfwise: Hanging Ten Isn’t All It’s Cracked Up To Be
By Kevin Kelly
Back in the later 1950s, a prominent doctor named Dorian Paskowitz dropped out of the traditional life and took his wife on the road, living out of a trailer. Before long, they had nine kids (eight boys and one girl), and they lived a life of surfing out of that trailer, before things began to unravel.